I don’t do anything complicated. I don’t turn piles. I don’t babysit a bin. I just feed the soil directly underground and let the worms and microbes do the work.

Here’s exactly what goes in… and what I never put in.

What I put in my in-ground worm composter

Kitchen scraps (the everyday stuff)

• Vegetable peels

• Fruit scraps like banana peels and apple cores (cut in small pieces)

• Coffee grounds

• Crushed eggshells

If it came from plants and would normally rot anyway, it goes in.

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Garden trimmings

• Spent plants after harvesting

• Soft stems and leaves

• Small weeds (only before they seed)

This keeps my garden cycling back into itself.

Dry materials (this part matters)

• Dried leaves

• Shredded cardboard

• Paper scraps (non-coated)

This is what keeps everything balanced so it doesn’t get too wet or compacted underground.

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What I never put in

This part is just as important as what I add.

No meat, dairy, or oils

Anything greasy or animal-based stays out. It doesn’t break down well in this system and attracts pests I don’t want near my beds.

No processed or mixed foods

If it’s cooked, sauced, or heavily processed, it doesn’t go in.

No diseased plants

If something in my garden is struggling with disease, I don’t recycle it back into the soil.

No plastics (even “compostable” claims)

If it won’t naturally break down in my worm system, it doesn’t go in.

The simple rule I follow

If it came from a plant and isn’t oily, processed, or diseased, it can probably be composted.

Everything else stays out.

Why this system works for me

This in-ground worm composter has made composting feel effortless. I’m not managing a pile, I’m just feeding the soil in the same place I grow food.

It keeps my kitchen waste low, my garden soil alive, and everything working in a closed loop.

And honestly? Watching “trash” turn into soil right under your garden never stops being satisfying.

TTYL,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

We are back baby. I took some time off from these posts but it is time to bring them back in the rotation. The seasonal depression got the best of me for a bit. Today is the first day of spring, so I thought this was as good as time as any to get off my ass and write. So here I am, up in my tower, in my cozy chair, listening to A Court of Wings and Ruin (have to do a reread before the two new books are released!) writing all my thoughts.

The past few weeks have been filled with snow, rain, wind, broken bones, takeout, and school performances. Anyone else get in a huge cooking slump? I love to cook but lately it just has become a chore.

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I ordered a new summer garden outfit from Duluth Trading Co. I like to see what is missing from my closet before ordering anything new. I live in long sleeve UPF shirts in the summer and mine are looking rough. So when I saw this pretty lilac shade I knew I needed it.

While looking through the website I came across this super fun pair of overalls. As a flower lover I knew I needed them.

If you are not watching Paradise, I need you to stop what you are doing and turn it on right now. It is on Hulu, and it’s an end of the world, sci-fi show. Sterling K. Brown is an amazing actor. I watch a lot of tv, and this is one of the best shows I’ve seen in a very long time, the soundtrack is also amazing.

Birds. Bird feeders. Bird nest. Birds. We are currently bird obsessed in this house. Every morning I turn on the Merlin Bird ID app and identify which birds are in my backyard as I drink my coffee. A sparrow is building a nest outside my kitchen window and I love watching them poke their little head of the birdhouse. Bird watching really creeps up on you… I keep seeing bird feeders with a camera, but I really think the move is a birdhouse with a camera. I want to see those itty bitty baby birds.

If you have not heard, Sarah J. Maas is giving us two new ACOTAR books, one in October and another in January. (I have already preordered both) In preparation I am doing a complete reread. I might be in the minority but I really love the Crescent City series, I do not understand the hate.

Here are a couple of my favorite substacks:

The Gardening Mind by Jo Thompson

Cultivated - a gathering-up of distractions

You may be new to The Gardening Mind, in which case, thank you ever so much for joining this lovely community, now in its fourth year. It exists purely due to the support of its readers - thank you. There’s a lot here - have a scroll, check out the home page, join in the Chat…… I hope you enjoy! You will find THE FRIENDLIEST gardening community here, I …

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3 months ago · 81 likes · 25 comments · Jo Thompson

On the Acre by Rachel Hardacre

From Garden to Studio

Introducing Eva…

Read more

3 months ago · 17 likes · 8 comments · Rachel Hardacre and Eva Kolenko

Next week will be all about worm composting. I need to get my worms off the kitchen counter and into the garden. To keep them alive I have been feeding them oats and keeping the soil moist.

With the weather warming a bit I plan to plant more cool weather crops. We had a nice drizzle all day today which is perfect for planting seeds! Also pay attention to when you are going to have a nice rain, and fertilize your plants. I fertilized my azaleas and rhododendrons today.

That is it for this week!

TTYL, LYLAS <3

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here

!

You plant a tiny seed or a skinny little start into the soil, and months later you’re pulling up a full, golden bulb that becomes the base of soups, pasta sauces, stir-fries, and pretty much every good dinner.

If you’re a beginner gardener, onions are actually one of the easiest crops to grow. They don’t require constant harvesting like lettuce, they tolerate cool weather, and they are easy to store.

But onions do have a few quirks. The biggest one? How you plant them depends on what you’re starting with.

You can grow onions from:

• Seeds
• Onion starts (also called transplants)
• Sets (small dormant bulbs)

Today we’re focusing on seeds and starts, because they produce the largest, best-quality bulbs for home gardeners.

Let’s dig in.

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

Choosing the Right Onion for Your Garden

Before you plant anything, you need to know one important thing about onions.

Onions grow based on day length.

That means they start forming bulbs when daylight reaches a certain number of hours. Because of this, different varieties grow best in different parts of the country.

Gardeners in Zone 6a (like much of the Midwest and Mid-Atlantic) should plant long-day onions.

Long-day onions start forming bulbs when daylight reaches about 14–16 hours.

Great long-day varieties include:

• Walla Walla
• Yellow Sweet Spanish
• Redwing
• Patterson
• Highlander (this is what I am growing this year)

These varieties grow large bulbs and store well.

Planting Onions from Seed

Growing onions from seed takes the longest, but it also gives you the biggest selection of varieties and often the largest bulbs.

When to Start Onion Seeds

Onion seeds should be started 8–10 weeks before your last frost.

For many Zone 6 gardeners, that means:

Late January through February

Starting them indoors gives the seedlings time to grow strong before being transplanted outside.

I have only grown onions from seed in the past, super easy I just didn’t get them started early enough this year.

How to Start Onion Seeds

1. Fill seed trays with seed starting mix.

2. Sprinkle onion seeds across the soil surface.

3. Cover lightly with about ¼ inch of soil.

4. Water gently.

5. Place under grow lights.

Onion seedlings look like tiny blades of grass when they sprout.

Keep the soil lightly moist and give them plenty of light.

As they grow, the tops may start to flop over. That’s completely normal. You can trim them back to about 3–4 inches tall to keep them tidy and encourage stronger growth.

(use the trimmed tops on baked potatoes)

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Transplanting Onion Seedlings

Once outdoor soil can be worked in early spring, it’s time to move your onions into the garden.

Harden them off for about a week before planting.

To plant:

• Space onions 4–6 inches apart
• Leave 12–18 inches between rows
• Plant them about 1 inch deep

The key is not planting them too deep. The bulb needs room to expand above the soil surface.

Planting Onion Starts

Onion starts are the easiest and fastest way to grow onions.

These are young onion plants that farmers grow in bulk, bundle together, and ship to gardeners in early spring.

They look a little like thin scallions when they arrive.

This is my first year using onion starts. I am excited to see the difference, if there is one.

When to Plant Onion Starts

Onions love cool weather.

Plant them as soon as your soil is workable in spring, often 4–6 weeks before your last frost date.

They can tolerate light frosts and will start growing quickly once temperatures warm.

I am planting mine this week, if the wind, rain, and snow ever stop here in Ohio.

How to Plant Onion Starts

When your box of starts arrives, they may look dry or floppy. Don’t worry — onions are incredibly resilient.

To plant:

1. Loosen your soil well.

2. Dig a shallow trench.

3. Separate the onion starts.

4. Place them 4–6 inches apart.

5. Plant them about 1 inch deep.

Gently firm the soil around each plant and water well.

Within a week or two, they’ll perk up and start growing quickly.

Get onions here

The Best Soil for Onions

Onions prefer:

• Loose soil
• Excellent drainage
• Plenty of organic matter

Raised beds are perfect for onions because they allow bulbs to expand easily.

Before planting, mix in compost or aged manure to give the plants plenty of nutrients.

Onions are heavy feeders, so fertile soil makes a big difference in bulb size.

Companion Plants for Onions

Their strong scent naturally helps confuse and repel many common garden pests, which makes them excellent neighbors for a variety of crops. Planting onions near the right plants can help protect your garden while maximizing space in raised beds.

Here are some of the best companion plants to grow alongside onions.

Carrots

Carrots and onions are one of the most classic companion planting pairings.

Onions help deter carrot rust flies, while carrots help repel onion flies. The two crops essentially protect each other while growing happily side by side.

Because carrots grow underground and onions grow upright, they also use garden space efficiently without competing for sunlight.

Plant carrots in rows between onions or alternate the plants within the same bed.

Lettuce

Lettuce grows quickly and has shallow roots, making it a great neighbor for onions.

The leafy greens help shade the soil, keeping moisture levels steady, while onions take up very little horizontal space. This pairing works especially well in square-foot or raised bed gardens.

Since lettuce matures quickly, you can even harvest it before the onions need more room to expand.

Beets

Beets and onions grow well together because they draw nutrients from slightly different areas of the soil.

Beets develop their bulbs underground, while onions form their bulbs near the surface. This means they can share the same garden bed without heavy competition.

Many gardeners also find that onions help discourage pests that sometimes target beet greens.

Strawberries

This might sound like an unusual pairing, but onions and strawberries grow surprisingly well together.

The strong scent of onions can help deter some pests that are attracted to strawberries. In return, strawberries act as a living ground cover that helps suppress weeds and keep soil moisture consistent.

Brassicas (Cabbage, Broccoli, and Kale)

Onions are also helpful companions for many plants in the brassica family.

Their scent may help deter pests like cabbage worms and aphids, which often attack crops like cabbage and broccoli.

If you grow cabbage or broccoli in your garden, planting onions nearby can add an extra layer of natural pest protection.

Plants to Avoid Near Onions

While onions get along with most vegetables, there are a couple plants that don’t make ideal neighbors.

Beans and Peas

Onions can inhibit the growth of beans and peas. These plants prefer different soil conditions, and onions may interfere with their nitrogen-fixing roots.

To keep both crops thriving, it’s best to plant them in separate garden beds.

A Simple Companion Planting Layout

If you’re planting onions in a raised bed, here’s an easy beginner-friendly layout:

Center rows: onions spaced 4–6 inches apart
Between rows: carrots or lettuce
Edge of the bed: strawberries or herbs like chamomile

This approach maximizes space while giving each crop room to grow.

More planning tips here:

Watering Onions

Onions need consistent moisture while they’re growing.

Aim for about 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation.

Dry soil can cause onions to stop growing early, resulting in smaller bulbs.

Mulching with straw or shredded leaves helps keep the soil evenly moist and suppress weeds.

A Trick for Growing Bigger Onion Bulbs

Here’s a tip many beginner gardeners don’t know.

When onions start forming bulbs, don’t cover them with soil.

The top of the bulb should actually be visible above the soil surface.

If soil piles up around the bulb, gently brush it away so the onion has room to expand.

This simple trick often leads to much larger onions at harvest time.

When to Harvest Onions

Onions are ready to harvest when the tops begin to yellow and flop over.

This usually happens mid to late summer, depending on the variety.

When about half of the onion tops have fallen, it’s time to harvest.

Gently loosen the soil and pull the bulbs out.

Curing Onions for Storage

If you want onions that last for months, curing is essential.

After harvesting:

1. Lay onions in a warm, dry, well-ventilated area.

2. Spread them in a single layer.

3. Let them dry for 2–3 weeks.

The outer skins will become papery and the necks will dry completely.

Once cured, trim the roots and tops and store onions in a cool, dry place.

Properly cured onions can last 4–8 months in storage.

TTYL, LYLAS,

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March is one of the quietest productive months in the garden. Not because it looks abundant, but because what you do now determines how calm (or chaotic) April and May feel.

This is the month of seed trays on shelves, muddy boots by the door, and those first small signs that winter is slipping into spring.

March is where the garden begins to move.

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Seed Starting Becomes Real (and a Little Chaotic)

March is when seed starting shifts from “a few trays” to suddenly wondering how you ran out of space.

This is the month I focus on crops and flowers that benefit from a head start but won’t outgrow their containers before transplanting.

What to start indoors right now

Vegetables

• Broccoli and cabbage for spring harvests

• Lettuce for early transplanting

• Kale and chard for cool-season beds (I am not a fan of kale, but a BIG fan of chard)

• Herbs like parsley that take forever to germinate

Flowers

• Snapdragons (slow but worth it)

• Stock for early fragrance

• Early cosmos

March seed starting is less about volume and more about pacing. I try to start things in small waves so I’m not overwhelmed with transplanting later.

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Direct Sowing

One of the most satisfying March tasks is direct sowing cold-loving seeds.

You don’t need perfect soil warmth, you just need soil that crumbles instead of squishes.

What I’m direct sowing

• Peas along trellises (a little snow won’t hurt)

• Spinach into corners of raised beds

• Radishes anywhere I have space

• Carrots in one dedicated area

And for flowers

• Poppies

• Larkspur

• Nigella

• Calendula

These seeds germinate while you’re not watching.

Raised Beds

March is not a digging month, it’s a refreshing month.

Instead of turning soil, I think of this as giving beds a top-layer boost.

What I actually do

• Spread a thin layer of compost across beds

• Add worm castings where heavy feeders will go

• Pull back mulch in areas I plan to direct sow

• Check bed edges, trellises, and supports before plants hide them

  

Watching for Signals (Not Just Dates)

March is the month I start noticing the landscape again.

Not big dramatic changes, just small clues that soil and air are shifting. Hellooooo phenology!!!

I watch for:

• Crocus appearing

• Daffodil buds

• Birds becoming louder in the morning

• Soil not as wet

• Bees buzzing around

These signs guide my planting decisions far more than the calendar.

The Flower Garden Starts Now (Even if It Doesn’t Look Like It)

March flower gardening is quiet. You’re planting things that may not bloom for months, but this is where strong stems and long bloom windows begin.

This month I’m:

• Direct sowing hardy annuals for cut flowers

• Planning succession plantings so everything doesn’t bloom at once

• Hardening off early seedlings on mild days

• Mentally mapping where summer flowers will fill gaps

March is the foundation of a flower garden that feels abundant later.

Early Pollinator Support

Pollinators begin emerging long before most gardens look “alive.”

What I do:

• Leave early blooms undisturbed

• Avoid clearing every leaf and stem

• Add shallow water sources on warm days

• Plant early nectar flowers where I can

What I’m Actually Doing This Month

Right now, my March looks like:

• Checking seed trays first thing each morning

• Direct sowing hardy flowers whenever soil allows (I am currently under a blanket of snow so this will come later in the month)

• Adding compost to raised beds in small sessions

• Watching bulb blooms as planting signals

• Planning succession flowers

Nothing dramatic. Just steady, seasonal movement

Shop Composting Tools Here

March Reminder

You don’t need to do everything this month.

A tray of seedlings. A handful of seeds scattered. A layer of compost.

That’s how spring begins.

TTYL, LYLAS

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

Flower gardening often comes with a quiet anxiety around timing.
Too early and seeds rot in cold soil. Too late and blooms arrive after the season’s peak. And in many climates, the “last frost date” feels more like a suggestion than a rule.

Phenology offers a gentler approach, one rooted in observation rather than precision.

Instead of planting flowers based on dates, phenology invites you to notice the signals already happening in your landscape. Trees leaf out. Birds return. Bulbs bloom. Soil shifts. And each of these changes quietly signals when certain flowers will succeed.

The beauty of using phenology for flowers is that blooms themselves become both the signal and the reward.

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The Earliest Flower Window: Cold Soil, Bright Light, Slow Growth

In late winter and very early spring, the garden feels paused, but it isn’t. Beneath the surface, soil organisms are waking and daylight is lengthening. This window is often overlooked, yet it’s ideal for hardy annual flowers that evolved to germinate in cool soil.

Instead of watching the calendar, notice:

• Frost still appearing in the mornings but melting quickly

• Soil that crumbles rather than freezes solid

• Bulbs like crocus, snowdrops, and early daffodils beginning to bloom

• Tree buds swelling but not fully opening

This is when hardy annuals such as larkspur, poppies, nigella, and bachelor’s buttons naturally germinate. Many of these flowers actually prefer a cold period to trigger germination and will outperform later sowings.

Gardeners who miss this moment often find these flowers struggling in warm soil, producing weaker plants or fewer blooms.

The Cool Bloom Phase: Gentle Growth and Reliable Transplants

As spring progresses, a noticeable softness enters the garden. Soil warms slightly, pollinators reappear, and early flowering trees bring color to the landscape. This stage is less dramatic than late spring warmth, but it’s incredibly productive for flower planting.

Phenology cues during this phase might include:

• Daffodils in full bloom

• Tulips pushing upward but not fully open

• Dandelions appearing in lawns and edges

• Bees becoming visibly active on warm afternoons

This window supports flowers that tolerate cool conditions but appreciate slightly warmer soil. Snapdragons, violas, foxglove, dianthus, and many perennial starts thrive here. Transplanting during this stage reduces stress because temperatures remain moderate and moisture levels are more consistent.

It’s also one of the best times to begin shaping cut flower beds before the rush of warm-season planting.

The Lilac Moment: Warm Soil and the Start of Summer Flowers

There is often a distinct shift when spring becomes late spring. Growth accelerates. Nights feel softer. Lawns surge with new growth. And certain shrubs — especially lilacs — become unmistakable seasonal markers.

Many gardeners intuitively recognize this moment as “safe planting weather,” but phenology refines it further.

When you notice:

• Lilacs blooming or nearly open

• Oak leaves expanding to about the size of a squirrel’s ear

• Consistently mild nighttime temperatures

• Increased insect and bird activity

You’ve entered the window for warm-season annual flowers.

Zinnias, cosmos, sunflowers, celosia, nasturtiums, and amaranth all benefit from waiting for these cues. Planting too early often leads to stalled growth, pest damage, or transplant shock. Waiting for these phenological signals aligns planting with soil warmth and pollinator activity, which leads to stronger growth and faster establishment.

Why Phenology Improves Flower Gardens Specifically

Vegetable gardeners often focus on harvest timing, but flower gardeners are working toward bloom timing, and that adds a layer of nuance.

Planting flowers with phenology:

• Extends bloom windows by staggering planting naturally

• Encourages sturdier stems and healthier root systems

• Reduces the need for re-sowing or replacing failed seedlings

• Aligns blooms with pollinator cycles, improving garden vitality

• Creates a garden that feels in rhythm rather than scheduled

It also shifts your attention from “What should I be doing?” to “What is happening right now?”

That mindset change alone makes gardening feel calmer and more intuitive.

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Using Phenology in Cut Flower Gardens

Cut flower gardeners benefit deeply from phenological planting because stem quality is tied to plant health and timing. Hardy annuals planted in the earliest window often produce longer, stronger stems. Cool-season flowers transplanted during the gentle spring phase establish faster. Warm-season flowers planted during the lilac bloom window grow vigorously with fewer setbacks.

Over time, these subtle shifts create fuller beds, more reliable succession blooms, and fewer gaps in flower production.

The Pollinator Connection

One of the benefits phenological flower planting is ecological alignment. Flowers that bloom alongside natural nectar sources provide continuity for pollinators. Early hardy annuals support emerging bees. Mid-spring blooms sustain butterflies and hoverflies. Warm-season flowers provide abundant summer forage.

Your flower garden becomes less of an isolated space and more of a living extension of the surrounding landscape.

Don't forgot to get a pollinator house

A Simple Way to Begin This Season

You don’t need a journal, a spreadsheet, or a perfect memory to practice phenology.
You simply need attention.

This season, try:

• Noticing which blooms appear before your instinct says it’s time to plant

• Taking photos of the same garden area weekly to track change

• Pairing planting decisions with visible landscape shifts

• Letting flowers themselves become your seasonal markers

Even one year of observation builds a personal planting rhythm that no zone chart can replicate.

TTYL, LYLAS,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

If you’ve ever searched:

• When should I plant tomatoes in Zone 6a?

• Why did my peas bolt early?

• Why are cabbage worms here already?

• Why does my last frost date feel wrong?

You’re asking a phenology question, even if you don’t know the word yet.

Let’s talk about phenology in gardening, why it matters more than your frost date, and how to use seasonal plant and insect cues to time your planting, pest control, and harvest more accurately.

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What Is Phenology?

Phenology is the study of seasonal changes in plants and animals and how those changes relate to weather, temperature, and climate patterns.

In gardening terms:

Phenology means planting according to what nature is doing, not what the calendar says.

Instead of relying only on:

• USDA Hardiness Zones

• Average last frost dates

• Seed packet instructions

Phenological gardening uses real-time environmental signals like:

• Soil temperature (you need a soil thermometer)

  

• Bloom timing

• Leaf emergence

• Insect activity

• Bird migration

• Accumulated heat (Growing Degree Days)

This is especially important in unpredictable spring weather, which, if you garden in Zone 6a in the Midwest, you know all too well.

Why Phenology Works Better Than Frost Dates

Your USDA zone only tells you your average annual minimum temperature.

It does not tell you:

• When your soil is warm enough for germination

• When pest insects will hatch

• When fungal diseases will begin

• When pollinators emerge

• When your microclimate is ready

Phenology adjusts to:

• Early springs

• Late frosts

• Wet seasons

• Dry spells

• Warmer winters

It is flexible. And flexible gardening is resilient gardening.

Phenology Planting Guide: What to Plant Based on What’s Blooming

Below are classic phenological cues used by farmers and gardeners for generations.

When Forsythia Blooms

Forsythia bloom signals soil temperatures around 45–50°F.

Plant:

• Lettuce

• Spinach

• Arugula

• Peas

• Radishes

• Carrots

• Beets

• Onions (sets)

• Kale

• Cabbage

• Broccoli

This is peak cool-season crop timing.

It’s also when:

• Earthworms become active

• Soil becomes workable

• Early pollinators begin moving

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When Daffodils Bloom

Daffodil bloom indicates the soil is warming but still cool.

Plant:

• Potatoes

• Swiss chard

• Turnips

• Mustard greens

This is also when:

• Cutworms begin emerging

• Slugs become active

If you’ve ever had seedlings mysteriously severed at the base, you were slightly behind this cue.

When Lilacs Bloom

Lilac bloom signals soil temperatures near 55–60°F.

Plant:

• Beans

• Cucumbers

• Squash

• Sweet corn

• Basil

This is the sweet spot for direct sowing warm-season seeds.

If your bean seeds rotted before sprouting in past years, you likely planted before this cue.

When Oak Leaves Are the Size of a Squirrel’s Ear

Oak leafing at this stage means frost risk is largely past and soil is consistently warm.

Transplant:

• Tomatoes

• Peppers

• Eggplant

This old farming saying exists because oak leaf development corresponds closely with soil temperatures needed for warm-season crops.

When Dandelions Are in Full Flower

Dandelion blooming indicates early insect emergence.

Watch for:

• Cabbage worms

• Flea beetles

• Aphids

It’s also an excellent time to:

• Side-dress brassicas

• Add row covers

When Irises Bloom

Iris bloom coincides with Japanese beetle emergence in many areas.

Prepare to:

• Hand-pick beetles

• Protect roses and beans

• Use row covers strategically

When Black Locust Trees Bloom

Black locust bloom aligns with squash vine borer egg-laying in many regions.

Protect:

• Zucchini

• Summer squash

• Pumpkins

This is your warning window.

Phenology and Pest Timing

Many garden pests do not operate on dates. They operate on accumulated heat.

Examples:

• Cabbage worms emerge after a specific number of growing degree days.

• Japanese beetles hatch after soil temperatures reach consistent warmth.

• Squash vine borers time egg-laying with specific bloom cycles.

If you rely only on “June,” you will miss them in warm springs and over-prepare in cool ones.

Phenology helps you anticipate rather than react.

Growing Degree Days (GDD): The Science Behind the Signals

Growing Degree Days measure accumulated heat over time.

Plants and insects develop only after reaching certain heat thresholds.

For example:

• Corn requires specific GDD totals to mature.

• Tomato flowering aligns with heat accumulation.

• Many insect life cycles are GDD-driven.

Phenological blooms are simply visible markers of these invisible heat totals.

Nature is doing the math for you.

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How to Track Phenology in Your Own Backyard

You do not need expensive equipment.

Start with a simple phenology journal or garden planner and record:

• First bloom of daffodils

• First forsythia bloom

• First lilac bloom

• Oak leaf emergence

• First robin sighting

• First mosquito

• Soil temperature at 2–4 inches

• First frost

Over 2–3 seasons, patterns will emerge unique to your microclimate.

Even two backyards in the same neighborhood can have different bloom timing due to:

• Sun exposure

• Wind protection

• Soil type

• Elevation

This is why copying someone else’s planting date often fails.

Phenology and Sustainable Gardening

If your goal is a more sustainable backyard garden, phenology helps you:

• Reduce crop failure

• Minimize replanting

• Lower pest pressure without chemicals

• Align with pollinator cycles

• Use succession planting more efficiently

• Reduce wasted seeds and starts

It encourages observation over impulse.

And observation builds skill.

Why Phenology Is Especially Important Now

Climate variability has made average frost dates less reliable.

Warmer winters.
False springs.
Late freezes.
Early heat waves.

Phenology adapts in real time.

Instead of asking:
“When does Zone 6a plant tomatoes?”

You ask:
“What are the oaks doing?”

That’s a different kind of gardening.

A slower one.
A smarter one.
A more resilient one.

Start This Week

Walk outside.

What is blooming?
What is leafing out?
What insects are present?

Nature is already telling you what to plant.

You just have to look up from the seed packet long enough to notice.

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TTYL, LYLAS,

Read more here:

A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

For the past few years, my garden has been teaching me the same lesson over and over again:

Healthy soil solves a lot of problems.

Better growth.
Stronger plants.
Fewer issues that require “fixing.”

And this year, I’m taking that lesson one step further by adding a worm composter to my garden, specifically, a Vego worm composter. I have Vego garden beds and I have been very happy with their products.

I am already buying worm castings every year, might as well try and make my own.

Read more about all types of composting here:

Why Worm Composting Makes Sense for Home Gardens

If you garden in raised beds, containers, or small urban spaces, worm composting is one of the highest-impact, lowest-waste upgrades you can make.

Here’s why.

1. Worm Castings = Powerful Soil Food

Worm castings are one of the most nutrient-rich, gentle soil amendments you can add to a garden.

They help:

• Improve soil structure

• Increase water retention (huge for raised beds)

• Support beneficial microbes

• Feed plants without burning roots

This is especially helpful if you’re growing:

• Vegetables

• Cut flowers

• Heavy feeders like tomatoes, squash, or leafy greens.

  

2. It Turns Kitchen Scraps Into Garden Gold

Instead of food scraps going to the trash or waiting forever in a traditional compost pile, worm composting lets you:

• Compost year-round

• Reduce household waste dramatically

For home and urban gardening, this is a big deal.

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3. It’s Perfect for Raised Beds

Raised garden beds dry out faster and rely heavily on soil quality. This was so important when I was growing in the high desert. I was watering twice a day and constantly trying to improve the soil. The soil was always on the verge of becoming hydrophobic.

Worm castings:

• Improve moisture retention

• Help balance nutrients

• Can be added directly to planting holes or used as a top dressing

This makes them ideal for raised garden beds, especially in spring.

Why I Chose the Vego Worm Composter

I wanted a system that:

• Looks tidy in the garden

• Is easy to manage

• Doesn’t smell

• Works for beginners

• From a brand I trust

The Vego worm composter checked those boxes.

It’s designed to be:

• Compact

• Low-maintenance

• Easy to harvest from

• Practical for real home gardeners (not just compost nerds)

This matters because the best system is the one you’ll actually use.

Pros of Worm Composting

1. Great for urban and home gardening

2. Produces fast, usable compost

3. Improves soil health naturally

4. Reduces kitchen waste

5. Works well with raised garden beds

6. No turning piles or heavy labor

   

Cons (Let’s Be Honest)

1. Requires feeding balance (not “set and forget”)

2. Not all scraps are worm-friendly

3. Needs temperature awareness

4. Small learning curve at the beginning

That said, once it’s set up, it becomes part of the rhythm of gardening, not another chore. I am not a fan of chores.

More Extras To Add This Year

Who Worm Composting Is Best For

Worm composting is a great fit if:

• You garden at home or in an urban space

• You use raised beds or containers

• You want better soil without synthetic fertilizers

• You enjoy simple, sustainable systems

It might not be for you if:

• You don’t want to manage food scraps at all

• You prefer large-scale outdoor compost piles only

Why I’m Adding It This Year

This season, my goal isn’t just to grow plants it’s to:

• Build better soil

• Waste less

• Create systems that support the garden long-term

Worm composting fits that perfectly.

And if you’re trying to grow a garden that gets better every year, this is one of the easiest places to start.

TTYL, LYLAS,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

Hope it helps!

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TTYL,

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Starting seeds indoors sounds simple, until it isn’t. One day everything looks fine, and the next you’re staring at leggy seedlings, fuzzy soil, or trays that refuse to sprout at all.

If you’ve ever wondered What did I do wrong? while crouched under grow lights, this guide is for you.

Below is a practical, no-shame troubleshooting guide to the most common indoor seed starting problems, why they happen, and exactly how to fix them, especially if you’re starting seeds in a basement or low-light space.

Read all about my basement set up here:

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1. Seeds Never Germinate

What it looks like: Nothing happens. No sprouts. No movement. Just damp soil and growing suspicion.

Common causes:

• Old or low-quality seeds

• Soil allowed to dry out during germination

• Soil too cold

• Seeds planted too deeply

How to fix it:

• Check seed packets for expiration dates and storage conditions

• Keep soil consistently moist (why does the word ‘moist’ suck so much) (not soggy) until seeds sprout

• Use a heat mat for warmth-loving seeds like tomatoes and peppers

• Follow depth instructions, many seeds need light and should stay on the surface

Pro tip: If nothing has sprouted after 14–21 days (depending on the plant), it’s usually safe to reseed.

2. Seedlings Are Tall, Thin, and Floppy (Leggy)

What it looks like: Seedlings stretch upward, fall over, or look like they’re reaching for help.

Common causes:

• Not enough light

• Grow lights too far away

• Lights not left on long enough

How to fix it:

• Position grow lights 2–3 inches above seedlings, use a chain that allows you to move your lights up and down

• Run lights 12–16 hours per day using a timer

• Rotate trays if light coverage is uneven

Good news: Slightly leggy seedlings can often be saved by planting them deeper later.

3. Mold or Fuzzy Growth on Soil

What it looks like: White or gray fuzzy patches on soil or seedling stems.

Common causes:

• Too much moisture

• Poor air circulation

• High humidity

How to fix it:

• Allow the soil surface to dry slightly between waterings

• Add a small fan nearby for airflow (not blowing directly on seedlings)

• Bottom water instead of watering from above

• Remove affected seedlings if mold persists

Important: Mold on soil is common and not always fatal, but damping off is.

4. Seedlings Suddenly Collapse (Damping Off)

What it looks like: Healthy-looking seedlings fall over at the soil line and die quickly. I can’t seem to find a picture of this but it looks like the base of the stem just shrivels up, and the seedling falls over.

Common causes:

• Fungal disease thriving in wet, still conditions

How to fix it:

• Use sterile seed starting mix (not garden soil)

• Avoid overcrowding seedlings

• Improve airflow with a fan

• Bottom water instead of misting the surface

Unfortunately: Once damping off starts, affected seedlings cannot be saved.

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5. Purple or Pale Leaves

What it looks like: Seedlings lose their rich green color and look weak or washed out.

Common causes:

• Nutrient deficiency

• Overwatering

• Roots outgrowing their container

How to fix it:

• Begin feeding with diluted liquid fertilizer once true leaves appear

• Allow soil to drain fully between waterings

• Pot up seedlings if roots are crowded.

  

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6. Seedlings Stop Growing

What it looks like: Seedlings stay the same size for weeks with no visible progress.

Common causes:

• Root-bound plants

• Cold temperatures

• Lack of nutrients

How to fix it:

• Transplant into larger containers

• Ensure temperatures stay within the plant’s ideal range

• Start gentle fertilizing

7. Soil Dries Out Too Fast (or Stays Wet Too Long)

What it looks like: Constant watering… or soil that never seems to dry.

Common causes:

• Shallow trays

• Poor-quality soil mix

• Lack of drainage holes

How to fix it:

• Use trays with proper drainage

• Choose a high-quality seed starting mix

• Bottom water and allow excess to drain fully

8. Seedlings Leaning or Growing Unevenly

What it looks like: Plants grow toward one side or bend dramatically.

Common causes:

• Uneven light exposure

How to fix it:

• Center trays under lights

• Adjust lights regularly as seedlings grow

• Rotate trays every few days

  

9. Too Many Seedlings in One Cell

What it looks like: Crowded seedlings competing for space.

Why it’s a problem:

• Weak growth

• Increased disease risk

How to fix it:

• Thin seedlings early using snips

• Keep the strongest plant per cell

Reminder: Thinning feels wrong, but it’s essential.

10. When to Stop Troubleshooting and Start Over

Sometimes the fix isn’t another adjustment, it’s a reset.

Start over if:

• Most trays fail to germinate

• Damping off spreads quickly

• Seedlings are severely stunted

Seed starting is a skill built through repetition, not perfection.

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Every experienced gardener has killed seedlings. Often many. The difference between frustration, and confidence is knowing why something went wrong, and how to fix it next time.

If you’re starting seeds indoors this season, keep this guide bookmarked. Troubleshooting is part of the process, not a sign you’re bad at gardening.

You’re learning. And that’s how every good garden begins.

TTYL, LYLAS

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

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If you’ve ever wondered whether starting seeds at home is actually cheaper than buying plants, the answer is yes… but with an upfront investment. The good news? Most seed‑starting supplies are reusable year after year, which means the cost drops dramatically after the first season.

Below is a realistic, cost breakdown. No extras you don’t need, no commercial greenhouse equipment, just a practical setup that works in a real house.

Shelving (Your Seed‑Starting Base)

What it’s for: Holding trays, lights, heat mats, and keeping everything organized in one place.

Cost: $100

A simple metal or plant shelf instantly turns any corner, basement, or spare room into a seed‑starting station. Shelving is a one‑time purchase and one of the most important parts of the setup, it keeps lights at the right height and prevents trays from being scattered around the house.

Good to know: Adjustable shelves make it easier to raise lights as seedlings grow.

Grow Lights

What they’re for: Preventing leggy, weak seedlings and providing consistent light when windows aren’t enough.

Cost: $84 (depending on size and number)

Grow lights are non‑negotiable for strong seedlings unless you have a sunroom or greenhouse. Full‑spectrum LED lights are energy‑efficient and long‑lasting, making them another multi‑season investment.

Budget tip: You don’t need fancy, seedlings just need bright, consistent light close to the soil surface.

Heat Mats

What they’re for: Speeding up germination, especially for tomatoes, peppers, flowers, and herbs.

Cost: $12

Heat mats gently warm the soil and can dramatically improve germination rates, particularly in cooler homes or the basement. These are reusable and usually last for years if stored properly.

Nice to know: Not every seed needs a heat mat, but many benefit from one.

Light Timer

What it’s for: Automatically turning lights on and off.

Cost: $9

A light timer keeps your seedlings on a consistent schedule (usually 12–16 hours of light per day) and removes one more daily task from your plate. This is a small purchase that makes a big difference.

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Fan (Air Circulation)

What it’s for: Strengthening stems and preventing mold or damping off.

Cost: $12

A small fan creates gentle airflow, helping seedlings grow sturdier and healthier. This is especially helpful when growing indoors with lots of trays close together.

Tip: You want movement, not a windstorm.

Watering Can

What it’s for: Gentle, controlled watering.

Cost: $24

A small watering can with a fine spout makes watering seedlings easier and reduces the risk of washing seeds out of the soil. This is another tool you’ll use well beyond seed‑starting season. I like the long spout, it’s easier to reach the back of the shelves. Also remember to water from the bottom once your seedling start to grow.

Seed Starting Trays

What they’re for: Holding soil and seeds during early growth.

Typical cost: $180

Seed trays come in many sizes and materials, but even basic plastic trays can last multiple seasons if handled gently. This is where you can easily scale up or down depending on how much you grow. Ok so yes, these are EXPENSIVE. I know. Hear me out, these are made in the USA, dishwasher safe, and will not break. I had the cheap ones, and they are crap. They bend and break just by looking at them funny.

Seed Labels

What they’re for: Remembering what you planted.

Cost: $7

Seed labels seem small, until you forget which tomato is which. Reusable labels are inexpensive and save confusion later in the season. There are 300 of these, I don’t think I’ll ever run out.

Estimated Total Cost

Here’s what most gardeners can expect to spend their first year:

Total Cost: Approximately $430.00

I know a lot of people say gardening is a cheap hobby, but I do not agree. The materials you have greatly impact your success. Having tools that do not work makes your life much harder! Once you decide that a hobby is hard, you are more than likely to quit. Plan properly and you have success!

After the first year, your costs drop significantly, usually to just seeds and soil.

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Is It Worth It?

Absolutely. Once your setup is in place, you’ll be growing dozens (or hundreds) of plants for the cost of a few seed packets. You also gain:

• Better plant variety

• Stronger transplants

• Earlier harvests

• More control over how your food and flowers are grown

Seed starting doesn’t have to be complicated, it just needs to be intentional.

If you’re building your setup slowly, start with lights + trays, then add heat mats and extras as you go. Every season gets easier.

TTYL, LYLAS,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

Below is a step‑by‑step guide to growing cabbage successfully, no matter your climate, plus what to look for when buying starts and a simple, flavorful recipe at the end.

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Why Grow Cabbage?

• Thrives in cool weather (spring and fall)

• High yields in small spaces

• Stores for months when grown well

• Versatile in the kitchen: raw, roasted, braised, fermented

Cabbage is a planning crop, not a difficult one, timing is everything.

Step 1: When to Plant Cabbage (By Growing Zone)

Cabbage prefers temperatures between 45–75°F. Too hot and it bolts or stays small; too cold and growth slows. Most gardeners grow cabbage as a spring crop, fall crop, or both.

Find your growing zone here

Spring Planting Guide

(Start seeds indoors)

• Zones 3–4: Start seeds indoors 8–10 weeks before last frost. Transplant outdoors 2–4 weeks before last frost.

• Zones 5–6: Start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before last frost. Transplant outdoors 2–3 weeks before last frost.

• Zones 7–8: Start seeds indoors 6 weeks before last frost or direct sow very early spring.

• Zones 9–10: Skip spring cabbage — focus on fall/winter crops instead.

Fall Planting Guide (Highly Recommended)

(Often easier and sweeter)

• Zones 3–4: Start seeds indoors in mid–late summer. Transplant 8–10 weeks before first frost.

• Zones 5–6: Start seeds indoors mid-summer. Transplant 6–8 weeks before first frost.

• Zones 7–8: Direct sow or transplant late summer.

• Zones 9–10: Start seeds in early fall for winter harvest.

Fall-grown cabbage is often sweeter and less pest-prone.

Step 2: Best Cabbage Seeds to Buy (By Type & Climate)

Not all cabbage is the same. Choosing the right variety makes a huge difference.

Green Cabbage (Reliable & Beginner‑Friendly)

Best for spring planting and shorter seasons

• Green Express – Fast‑maturing, compact, and dependable for early harvests

• Copenhagen Market – Classic round heads, cold tolerant, excellent for spring and fall

Red Cabbage (Cold Hardy & Storage Friendly)

Great for cooler climates and fall harvests

• Red Acre – Compact heads, very cold tolerant, excellent for small gardens and fall growing

Napa / Chinese Cabbage (Heat Tolerant & Versatile)

Best for gardeners dealing with unpredictable springs

• One Kilo Slow Bolt Napa – Excellent bolt resistance, ideal for spring planting where temperatures fluctuate

Specialty / Pointed Cabbage (Sweet & Efficient)

Great for tight spacing and quick harvests

• Caraflex – Cone‑shaped, sweet flavor, matures quickly and handles cool weather well

Best Picks by Zone

• Zones 3–5: Copenhagen Market, Red Acre, Caraflex

• Zones 6–7: Green Express, Caraflex, One Kilo Slow Bolt Napa

• Zones 8–10: One Kilo Slow Bolt Napa, Green Express (fall/winter only)

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Step 3: Starting Cabbage from Seed

• Use a seed-starting mix, not garden soil

• Plant seeds ¼ inch deep

• Keep soil moist but not soggy

• Ideal germination temp: 65–75°F

• Harden off seedlings for 7–10 days before transplanting

Seedlings should be short, sturdy, and deep green, not leggy!

Seed Starting Supplies

Step 4: What to Look for When Buying Cabbage Starts

If you’re buying plants instead of starting from seed, choose carefully.

Look for:

• Dark green leaves

• Thick central stem

• Compact shape

• No yellowing or spots

Avoid:

• Leggy, tall plants

• Yellow or pale leaves

• Roots circling the pot tightly

• Signs of pests (holes, sticky residue)

Pro tip: Smaller, healthy starts outperform oversized ones.

Step 5: Planting & Care

• Space plants 12–18 inches apart

• Full sun (at least 6 hours)

• Rich soil with compost

• Consistent watering (stress causes splitting)

• Mulch to keep soil cool

Common Issues

• Cabbage worms → Use row covers early

• Split heads → Caused by uneven watering

• Small heads → Usually planted too late or soil lacking nutrients

Step 6: Harvesting Cabbage

• Harvest when heads feel firm and solid

• Cut at the base with a sharp knife

• Leave outer leaves, sometimes a second smaller head will form

Fall cabbage can stay in the ground after light frosts, improving flavor.

What to Do With All That Cabbage

Cabbage is incredibly versatile and keeps well in the fridge or root cellar.

Ways to Use It:

• Fresh slaws and salads

• Roasted wedges

• Braised with butter and herbs

• Added to soups and stews

• Fermented (sauerkraut, kimchi)

Cabbage rewards gardeners who plan ahead. Get the timing right, choose varieties that suit your climate, and you’ll have a dependable, delicious crop that carries you through multiple seasons.

If you’ve struggled with cabbage before, try it again, just earlier, cooler, and with the right variety.

TTYL, LYLAS,

A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

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Gertrude Jekyll believed gardens should feel natural, generous, and deeply considered, never sparse, never fussy. Her borders were built on repetition, careful color harmony, and plants chosen as much for their foliage as their flowers.

In a front garden, this approach creates something quietly powerful: a space that looks established, welcoming, and beautiful from the street in every season.

Core Principles of a Jekyll-Style Garden

• Layering: Tall plants in back, medium in the middle, soft spillers at the front

• Repetition: The same plants appear again and again for rhythm

• Odd-number groupings: Clusters of 3, 5, or 7—never singles

• Foliage first: Flowers shine, but leaves do the long-term work

• Color harmony: One calm palette per bed

Jekyll didn’t design gardens plant by plant, she designed them as living paintings.

Plants Gertrude Jekyll Loved:

• Roses, delphiniums, phlox, foxgloves, peonies

• Hardy geraniums, lady’s mantle, lavender, ferns

• Herbs woven into ornamental beds

These plants form the backbone of her style and still thrive in modern gardens.

In the paid guide below, you’ll find exact plant counts, spacing, placement, and two complete layouts—one for full sun and one for partial shade—scaled specifically for a front-of-house garden.

The difference between admiring Gertrude Jekyll’s gardens and planting one yourself is knowing exactly how many plants to buy—and where they belong. That’s what follows.

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If there’s one gardener who truly looked at a garden like a painting, it’s Gertrude Jekyll. She didn’t just plant flowers, she composed them. Every bed, every border, every path had a rhythm, a harmony, a story.

Jekyll lived in England from 1843 to 1932, and she designed over 400 gardens during her lifetime. She wasn’t just a gardener; she was an artist, writer, and educator. She worked closely with architects like Edwin Lutyens to create gardens that complemented the homes they surrounded, blending structure with natural beauty.

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What I love most about Jekyll is her obsession with color and texture. She treated plantings the way a painter treats a canvas, carefully layering tones, contrasting textures, and considering how everything would look through the seasons. She didn’t rely on straight lines or rigid symmetry. She relied on observation, experience, and intuition.

If you want to peek into her world, check out: Colour Schemes for the Flower Garden.

What Gertrude Jekyll Believed

Her philosophy was simple, but revolutionary for her time:

• Color is everything. She carefully planned borders so colors flowed naturally from one to the next.

• Texture adds depth. She paired feathery grasses with bold-leaved perennials to make the garden feel alive.

• Seasonality matters. Her gardens weren’t static, they changed and evolved through the year, offering a new experience in each season.

• Design is about feeling. She believed the emotional experience of walking through a garden was just as important as its appearance from a map or plan.

Bringing Jekyll’s Magic to Your Garden

You don’t need acres or a formal training to garden like Jekyll. Here’s how to bring her painterly approach into your backyard:

1. Plan by color, not by plant type.
   Group plants that complement or contrast each other. Think soft pinks flowing into lavender, bold yellows next to deep purples.

2. Play with texture.
   Mix leafy greens with delicate blooms, tall grasses with low groundcovers. The variation makes the garden feel rich and layered.

3. Think in sequences.
   Jekyll often designed borders that moved from dark to light, cool to warm. Try sketching a simple color gradient for a flower bed before planting.

4. Plan for all seasons.
   Add evergreens, ornamental grasses, seed heads, or late-blooming perennials so your garden always has interest, even when some plants aren’t flowering.

5. Observe and adjust.
   Jekyll spent hours in her gardens watching how plants interacted. You can do the same, note what thrives, what blooms together, and make small tweaks each season.

Why She Still Matters

Gertrude Jekyll reminds us that gardening is both science and art. It’s about understanding plants, yes, but also about feeling, how colors lift the heart, how textures delight the fingers, how the changing seasons tell a story.

Her legacy lives on in every flower border that feels “right,” in every backyard where color and texture are layered with intention. She shows us that a garden can be more than functional or pretty.

TTYL,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

If you’ve ever wanted to start seeds early but felt overwhelmed by grow lights, heat mats, or turning your entire dining room into a seedling nursery, let me introduce you to the gardening method that feels like magic: starting seeds outside in milk jugs, also known as winter sowing. This simple, low-cost technique lets you grow hardy, strong seedlings without fancy equipment, without stressing about indoor space, and without babysitting tiny trays for months.

Winter sowing is one of the most beginner-friendly ways to start seeds, especially if you live in a climate with cold winters and unpredictable spring weather (hello, Zone 6 friends). And the best part? You probably already have everything you need sitting in your recycling bin.

Today we’re walking through exactly what winter sowing is, how to set up your milk jug mini-greenhouses, which seeds work best, and the biggest tips beginners overlook. If you want a garden bursting with flowers, herbs, and veggies this summer—this is your sign to grab a jug and get started.

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What Is Winter Sowing?

Winter sowing is a method of starting seeds outdoors during the coldest months, yes, even when it’s freezing. Instead of nurturing seedlings indoors, you plant them in clear plastic containers (usually milk or water jugs), which act as tiny greenhouses. The containers protect your seeds from harsh weather while still allowing natural temperature fluctuations, snowmelt moisture, and sunlight. This creates hardy seedlings perfectly timed with your climate.

Think of it as outsourcing the hard part to nature. Your milk jugs handle the temperature control. The sun handles the warmth. The snow and rain handle the watering. It is simple, sustainable, and surprisingly effective.

This method is ideal for gardeners who want strong, acclimated seedlings ready for spring planting without the fuss of indoor setups.

Why Start Seeds Outside in Milk Jugs?

Besides being wildly charming to see a row of glowing jugs lined up in the yard, winter sowing comes with big benefits:

1. No Indoor Space Required

You don’t need shelves, lights, or trays, just a corner in your yard or patio.

2. Naturally Cold-Stratified Seeds

Many flowers and herbs need cold exposure to germinate. Milk jugs provide that safely and reliably.

3. Stronger, Hardier Seedlings

Seedlings sprout in natural conditions rather than indoor “perfect” ones, making them less likely to fail after transplanting.

4. Pest-Protected and Weather-Resilient

The jugs protect seeds from birds, animals, and extreme temperature dips.

5. An Affordable, Low-Waste Seed Starting Method

Recycling + gardening = the sustainability win we love.

If you’re trying to grow more flowers or expand your vegetable garden without overspending, winter sowing is your new best friend.

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What You Need to Start Seeds in Milk Jugs

This is the part where seasoned gardeners grin—because it truly is that simple. Here’s what you’ll gather:

• 1-gallon clear or translucent plastic milk or water jugs

• A sharp knife or scissors

• Potting soil (not garden soil—look for a seed-starting friendly mix)

• Your seeds

• Duct tape or packing tape

• A simple plant marker

• A drill or something to poke drainage holes

If you can cut a jug and use a roll of tape, you can winter sow.

How to Prepare Your Milk Jugs (Step-by-Step)

Let’s create your mini greenhouse.

1. Rinse Your Jugs Thoroughly

Make sure no milk residue remains. Clean jugs = healthy seedlings.

2. Cut Around the Jug, Leaving a “Hinge”

Cut horizontally around the jug just below the handle, stopping about one inch from the back so the top stays attached.
This creates a flip-open lid.

3. Add Drainage Holes

Winter sowing success starts with drainage.

Add:

• 4–6 holes in the bottom

• 2–4 holes around the sides near the bottom

4. Fill with 3–4 Inches of Potting Mix

Moisten the soil so it’s damp but not muddy.

5. Sow Your Seeds

Sprinkle seeds according to the seed packet.
Cold-hardy varieties can be sown thicker; tender annuals need more space.

6. Mist the Soil and Close the Jug

Flip the lid down and tape around the cut seam to seal it.

7. Leave the Cap off

This is your ventilation! It allows airflow and prevents overheating on sunny late-winter days.

8. Label Clearly

Label both the inside and outside. (Trust me. Winter weather can fade everything.)

9. Place Outside and Forget About Them

Choose a spot where they will get sun but won’t blow away.
Your jugs can handle snow, sleet, rain, and freezing temperatures.

This is the part that feels illegal in the best way, your work is done, and nature takes it from here.

The Best Seeds for Winter Sowing

Not all seeds are meant for this method, which is why choosing the right varieties is key for beginners.

Cold-Hardy Flowers

These thrive with winter sowing:

• Pansies & violas

• Borage

• Yarrow

• Lavender

• Coneflower (Echinacea)

• Black-eyed Susan

• Columbine

• Snapdragons

• Larkspur

• Chamomile

Cold-Tolerant Herbs

Great options include:

• Thyme

• Mint

• Lemon balm

• Sage

• Oregano

Cool-Season Veggies

These handle cold exposure beautifully:

• Lettuce

• Spinach

• Kale

• Cabbage

• Broccoli

• Peas

Seeds to Avoid in Winter Sowing

These prefer warmth and should be started later:

• Tomatoes

• Peppers

• Basil

• Cucumbers

• Squash

Caring for Your Winter-Sown Jugs

Here’s where the magic of low-maintenance gardening really shines.

Let the Weather Work for You

Snow? Perfect.
Freezing nights? Great.
Rain? Ideal.

Your jugs mimic natural freeze–thaw cycles that many seeds require.

Check for Moisture Occasionally

Open the lid and peek inside every week or two.
If the soil is dry, give it a quick mist.
If it’s soggy, gently tilt the jug to help excess water drain.

Watch for Germination in Early Spring

Once days warm into the 40s and 50s, you’ll see green sprouts.
This is when you crack the lid on warm days to prevent overheating.

Harden Off Without the Stress

Unlike indoor seedlings, winter-sown plants are already acclimated.
Just open the jug fully for a week, then transplant.

When to Plant Your Winter-Sown Seedlings

Once your soil is workable in spring and your seedlings have their first true leaves, you can transplant directly into the garden. These seedlings are tough—cold wind, fluctuating temps, and bright sun don’t scare them.

If you’re planting cool-season crops like lettuce or violas, you can plant earlier. Warm-season flowers and herbs should wait until frost danger has passed.

Why Gardeners Love Winter Sowing

Winter sowing is more than a gardening technique—it’s a mindset shift. It invites you to collaborate with the season instead of rushing it. When the rest of the garden is sleeping, these tiny jugs hold the promise of spring. And every time you walk outside and see the jugs in the winter light, it feels like a secret you’re keeping with nature.

If you’re dreaming of raised beds overflowing with cut flowers, herbs for summer mocktails, or crisp salads straight from your backyard, winter sowing is the easiest first step you can take.

TTYL, LYLAS,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

Thanks for reading! If you want more detailed garden guides consider becoming a paying subscriber, I would love you forever.

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TTYL, LYLAS

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1. Electric Wiggle Car: The best outside purchase we made in 2025. All girls ages 4-8 ride it up and down the driveway, and down the sidewalk, and I will even take a ride or two if they let me!

2. Breville Bambino Plus: We have been using my parents old Nespresso for years, this machine lived in his office, and he retired 8 years ago so that tells you how old it was. I am hoping this machine lasts just as long or LONGER. I have had great luck with Breville appliances, we have a toaster/air fryer, and tea maker. It has been a nice change to weighing espresso, and trying to pull perfect shots. I don’t think mine are great but it does taste better than the Nespresso pods so that’s a start.

3. Kitchen Tweezers: If you want to feel like a Michelin Star Chef, buy kitchen tweezers. I like how they are more precise than normal tongs. It’s easier to pick up smaller pieces of food and be a bit more delicate.

4. Soil Thermometer: Living in a short growing season this is a game changer. Seeds don’t know what month it is, they sprout based upon temperature. Beginning in late February I start to test the soil temperatures. Right when it the soil hits 40 degrees Fahrenheit I plant lettuce and place a cloche overtop to speed up the germination.

5. Forehead Wrinkle Patches: I am 35, enough said. Frownies make me break out, these do not. Buy them, they work.

Well that’s all for now.

TTYL, LYLAS

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

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Planting your first raised bed shouldn’t feel overwhelming or complicated. This beginner-friendly spring 4x4 raised bed garden guide shows you how to plan, plant, and grow a productive small garden with confidence. Even if this isn’t your first garden, this guide has something for you!

Inside the full guide, you’ll find a clear spring raised bed layout for beginners, practical plant pairings, and straightforward advice on what to plant and where. Everything is designed for real people with limited space who want their garden to actually work, not just look good on paper.

The guide also covers the essentials of beginner gardening, including soil prep, watering methods for raised beds, organic pest management, and the tools that are worth having (and which ones you can skip). It’s focused, realistic, and built to help you avoid common mistakes that frustrate new gardeners.

If you’ve ever stood in the garden center unsure of what to buy or when to plant, this guide gives you a plan you can follow. The full download walks you through the season step by step, so your raised bed becomes a reliable spring garden you can build on year after year.

Download the guide below!

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Spring gardening always feels a bit like matchmaking. Which plants get along? Which ones support each other? Which ones make terrible neighbors? Companion planting answers all of that, and once you understand the “why” behind the pairings, your garden becomes easier to care for, more resilient, and far more abundant.

Whether you’re growing your first raised bed or expanding a backyard plot, companion planting gives you a simple, low-cost way to reduce pests, improve flavor, increase pollination, and maximize your space. For beginner gardeners, especially my apartment gardeners, suburban families, and anyone growing to supplement groceries, this is one of the most impactful tools in your gardening toolkit.

Today, we’re walking through a full Spring Companion Planting Chart, plus why each plant matters, how it helps the garden, and the best pairings to plant right now.

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Why Companion Planting Works

Companion planting is more than old-fashioned garden folklore. Plants interact with each other in meaningful ways: through scent, root structure, nitrogen-fixing, shade, and even pest management.

Here’s what the right pairing can do:

Reduce pests naturally

Strong-scented herbs (like rosemary, sage, thyme, chives) help mask the smell of vulnerable veggies, confusing pests like cabbage worms or aphids. Flowers like nasturtiums can “trap” pests so they leave your crops alone.

Attract beneficial insects

Sweet alyssum, violas, and borage pull in pollinators, hoverflies, and parasitic wasps, tiny helpers that take out aphids and boost fruit production.

Improve soil health

Plants like peas and beans fix nitrogen in the soil, giving leafy greens an extra boost. Deep-rooted plants help break up compacted soil for shallower-rooted neighbors.

Create microclimates

Tall plants can shade tender greens from harsh midday sun. Groundcovers help keep soil cool and moist.

Maximize small spaces

Pairing fast growers with slow growers lets you harvest more from the same bed. For example: radishes pull out quickly, leaving room for carrots to fill in.

The Spring Companion Planting Chart

Below is a plant-by-plant guide including best neighbors, flowers that help, and the specific ways each pairing improves your garden.

ROOT VEGETABLES

Carrots

Carrots love cool soil and benefit from neighbors that help retain moisture. Pairing them correctly also keeps pests away, especially the carrot rust fly.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Chives, Parsley, Cilantro

• Veggies: Lettuce, Radishes, Onions

• Flowers: Marigolds, Nasturtiums

Why it Works:

• Chives repel carrot flies.

• Lettuce provides gentle shading to keep carrots sweet and prevent bitterness.

• Radishes germinate quickly, breaking up soil crust for slower-growing carrots.

• Marigolds discourage soil pests and nematodes.

Beets

Beets appreciate companions that don’t compete for root space. They’re also natural friends to leafy greens.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Mint (contained!), Basil

• Veggies: Lettuce, Kohlrabi, Onions

• Flowers: Borage, Calendula

Why it Works:

• Borage is known to improve the flavor and growth of beets (and strawberries!).

• Onions help deter leaf miners.

• Basil helps with pest pressure and provides partial shade for tender greens planted nearby.

Radishes

Radishes grow lightning fast and act as sacrificial protection for more delicate plants.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Dill

• Veggies: Lettuce, Cucumbers, Spinach

• Flowers: Nasturtiums

Why it Works:

• Flea beetles love radishes, so they’ll eat them instead of your kale or bok choy.

• Lettuce grows in the shade of radish foliage.

• Dill attracts beneficial insects that keep aphids under control.

LEAFY GREENS

Lettuce

Lettuce thrives when surrounded by plants that repel aphids and keep the soil cool.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Chives, Dill, Basil

• Veggies: Carrots, Radishes, Beets

• Flowers: Violas, Sweet Alyssum

Why it Works:

• Chives keep aphids at bay.

• Alyssum brings in hoverflies—nature’s aphid assassins.

• Violas create a living mulch that helps keep the soil moist.

Spinach

A cool-weather favorite, spinach grows best with nitrogen-fixing peas and shallow-rooted flowers that attract bees.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Dill, Mint

• Veggies: Strawberries, Radishes

• Flowers: Borage

Why it Works:

• Borage draws in pollinators that help nearby strawberries (an iconic spring pairing).

• Mint masks spinach scent from pests, but keep mint contained.

• Radishes fill in quickly and help break up compacted soil.

Kale (and other early brassicas like bok choy)

Kale is beloved by pests, but certain herbs can dramatically reduce cabbage worm damage.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Thyme (the best), Rosemary, Sage

• Veggies: Beets, Onions

• Flowers: Calendula, Nasturtiums

Why it Works:

• Strong-scented herbs confuse cabbage moths.

• Onions repel aphids and beetles.

• Nasturtiums attract cabbage worms away from brassicas.

ONIONS, GARLIC, SHALLOTS

Onions

Onions are incredible team players—they repel pests, take up little space, and improve the flavor of nearby crops.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Dill, Parsley, Chamomile

• Veggies: Carrots, Beets, Kale, Lettuce

• Flowers: Marigolds

Why it Works:

• Chamomile improves onion flavor compounds.

• Onions deter carrot flies and aphids.

• Their narrow profile allows for interplanting between larger crops.

Garlic

Garlic is a potent pest deterrent and thrives near crops that are prone to fungal issues.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Thyme

• Veggies: Lettuce, Spinach, Carrots

• Flowers: Chamomile

Why it Works:

• Garlic helps prevent fungal disease in nearby plants.

• Thyme boosts garlic growth and protects against pests.

• Chamomile improves garlic flavor (yes, it really works!)

  

Read more about planting garlic here:

PEAS + COOL-SEASON VINES

Peas

Peas are one of your best early-spring nitrogen fixers. They enrich the soil for everything around them.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Mint, Chives

• Veggies: Lettuce, Carrots, Radishes

• Flowers: Sweet Alyssum, Sweet Peas (ornamental)

Why it Works:

• Peas fix nitrogen, giving lettuce and spinach a boost.

• Radishes fill in low gaps around trellised peas.

• Alyssum attracts tiny pollinators early in the season.

BRASSICAS (Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower)

Even though you personally don’t love cauliflower (same), your audience does—and these plants desperately need good companions.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Thyme, Sage, Rosemary, Dill, Mint

• Veggies: Beets, Spinach, Onions

• Flowers: Calendula, Marigolds, Nasturtiums

Why it Works:

• Herbs confuse cabbage moths and repel beetles.

• Onions help keep aphids off growing heads.

• Nasturtiums act as a lure crop—pests hit them first.

  

POTATOES

Potatoes

Potatoes are heavy feeders, but pairing them with the right herbs and flowers can help with pests and soil quality.

Plant With:

• Herbs: Thyme, Basil

• Veggies: Beans (nitrogen fixers), Lettuce

• Flowers: Marigolds, Sweet Alyssum

Why it Works:

• Beans enrich the soil for hungry potatoes.

• Basil can help deter potato beetles.

• Marigolds discourage nematodes around tubers.

HELPFUL SPRING HERBS (and who they love)

Basil

Pairs With: Lettuce, Carrots, Spinach
Avoid: Cucumbers (growth suppression)

Basil improves flavor, repels pests, and thrives near delicate greens early in the season.

Mint (always contained)

Pairs With: Peas, Cabbage, Carrots

Mint masks the scent of leafy greens and helps repel cabbage pests—but plant it in its own pot or sunken container.

Thyme

Pairs With: Brassicas, Carrots, Potatoes

Thyme is one of the strongest pest-deterrent herbs you can grow.

Cilantro

Pairs With: Lettuce, Spinach, Carrots

Cilantro flowers early, drawing in hoverflies that devour aphids.

Chamomile

Pairs With: Onions, Garlic, Brassicas

A quiet powerhouse that improves flavor and calms pest pressure.

FLOWERS THAT MAKE YOUR SPRING GARDEN BETTER

Nasturtiums

The ultimate trap crop. Aphids love them—which keeps them off your veggies.

Marigolds

Incredible for soil health. They discourage nematodes and attract pollinators.

Sweet Alyssum

The #1 flower for attracting beneficial predatory insects.

Borage

A pollinator magnet that improves the flavor of strawberries and tomatoes.

Violas & Pansies

Edible, beautiful, and excellent for shading soil around greens.

How to Use This Chart in Your Spring Garden

Here’s how to bring all of this together without overthinking it:

Start by grouping plants by growth habit

Greens with greens, roots with roots, tall plants on the north side.

Add herbs around the edges

Herbs act like a protective border while making harvest easier.

Tuck flowers between crops

Think of them as “living pest control.”

Interplant fast growers with slow growers

Radishes + carrots
Lettuce + peas
Spinach + strawberries

This maximizes your space and gives you multiple harvest layers at once.

Don’t stress about perfection

Companion planting works even when it’s imperfect. The goal is diversity, variety, and a garden that feels alive.

TTYL, LYLAS,

A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

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Every so often, a gardener comes along who changes the way we see the land. For me, that’s Jens Jensen.

He looked at the tall grass prairies of the Midwest, the grasses, the wildflowers, the wide open sky, and saw art. At a time when most landscape designers were importing European styles full of clipped hedges and manicured lawns, Jensen said, “Why not celebrate what’s already here?”

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Born in Denmark in 1860, Jensen immigrated to America and settled in Chicago, where he worked his way up from park laborer to one of the most influential landscape architects of his time. His designs were simple but powerful, stone council rings instead of formal fountains, native grasses instead of lawns, and wildflowers that looked like they had always been there.

He believed the landscape should tell a story of place, that our gardens should feel rooted in their natural surroundings. For those of us gardening in the Midwest, that idea feels especially meaningful.

What Jens Jensen Believed

Jensen’s philosophy centered around what he called the “Prairie Style.” It was about creating harmony between people and nature, using native plants and natural forms instead of forcing the land into something artificial.

A few key ideas defined his work:

• Use native plants. He saw beauty in what others overlooked, the goldenrods, coneflowers, bluestem, and wild bergamot that define the prairie.

• Honor the horizon. His designs often framed long views, emphasizing the expanse and rhythm of the land.

• Create gathering spaces. He designed circular “council rings” from local stone, places for community, reflection, and connection.

  

• Let nature lead. His gardens followed the flow of the land instead of imposing straight lines or symmetry.

Bringing His Ideas Into the Backyard

You don’t need acres of prairie to channel Jens Jensen. You just need a bit of curiosity and a willingness to see the beauty in what already grows where you live. Here are some ways to bring his vision home:

1. Plant with purpose.
   Choose native plants that thrive in your region, they’ll need less water, attract more pollinators, and keep your garden in tune with the ecosystem. You could link to a native plant finder or a local extension office’s plant list for readers to explore.

2. Create a “prairie corner.”
   Dedicate one area of your yard to native wildflowers and grasses. Even a small patch can buzz with life, bees, butterflies, and songbirds will find it.

3. Think in sweeps, not dots.
   Jensen planted in drifts, large patches of one plant rather than one of everything. Try grouping coneflowers, rudbeckia, or bluestem in wide curves for a natural, cohesive look.

4. Add a place to gather.
   If you have room, create your own “council ring,” maybe a simple circle of stones or a fire pit with natural seating. It doesn’t have to be perfect. It’s about connection, with your family, with friends, with the land.

   

5. Celebrate the seasons.
   Jensen loved how the prairie changed month by month. Let your garden evolve too, resist cutting everything back in fall, and enjoy the seed heads and winter silhouettes. I often seen everyone cutting back their rudbeckia, I don’t, I leave most of up all winter long.

   

   Gifts for the native plant lovers

Why He Still Matters

Jens Jensen taught us that we don’t have to look far for beauty, it’s right under our feet. He believed gardens should reflect their region, that they could be wild and intentional, and that they could bring people together in a shared appreciation of the land.

In a world obsessed with perfection, his approach feels like a breath of fresh air. It’s a reminder that our gardens don’t have to look like anyone else’s, they just have to belong to our place.

Jens Jensen eventually created The Clearing Folk School up in Door County, and it was basically his dream spot for slowing down and actually paying attention to nature. He wanted a place where people could learn by being outside, walking the woods, noticing the light, talking with each other around a table, rather than sitting in a traditional classroom. The Clearing still feels like that today. It’s quiet, a little magical, and full of those old-school craft and nature workshops that make you feel connected to the land in the simplest, best way. How cool would it be to take a few classes there?!?

So this week, I’m walking through my garden with fresh eyes. I’m looking at the goldenrod I once called a weed, the milkweed that showed up uninvited, and the clover in the grass. I think Jensen would smile at that, finding beauty in what’s already here

Thats it for this week!

TTYL,

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!

This week we got WALLPAPER!! I have been waiting for months and I am so happy with how it turned out. Now I am sure I will let it sit for months before I style the room. We had a wonderful Thanksgiving with my family this year. This is the first year any of my girls ate any traditional Thanksgiving food, so if you are in the trenches, it will eventually happen, took 9 years for us. lol. Card games were played, puzzles not finished and lots of pie was eaten. Overall a great day.

I am straying a bit, and doing a gift guide roundup for this week. It is Black Friday after all. I understand that it is not everyone’s thing, but if it is, take a gander! I have tried to make a lot of these guides as things people wouldn’t necessarily buy themselves but would love to own.

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Under $100 for the Gardener

This is a garden Substack so will start with the gardener gift guide. I would be so happy with any of these items. A pretty trowel, and gloves would brighten any bad day in the garden. I love looking to garden design books for inspiration, and the little terrarium would be great to tie me over during the winter months.

Toys we cannot live without

These are toys that we own and my girls play with EVERY SINGLE DAY. If my girls did not have magnets and little figurines to play with I honesty have no idea what they would do all day.

Gifts for the lover of cancelled plans

For the homebody, I am this person. These are the things I want. A pretty wool blanket, cashmere socks, with a cup of tea is my ideal combination. Match me and buy the blanket, mug and tea pot.

For the Art Obsessed

Ok so when my girls are not playing with magnets they are doing art. We have 4 sets of those watercolors and they are used everyday. We keep all the art supplies out on the craft table and the girls ages 4-8 have free range over what they use and when they use them. I give the paint sticks as gifts to every kids birthday party I attend.

Gifts for the Cook

I have the dutch oven, microplane, instant read thermometer, vanilla paste, knife, salt, and tea maker (I have had the tea maker since 2016). They are all on heavy rotation in my house. That instant read thermometer is a GAME CHANGER, no more raw or over cooked chicken, perfect medium rare steaks every time. I do not cook without it. I am adding the sous vide tool to my Christmas list, *hint, hint hubby.

For the Boys

So I do not have boys, but my friends who do have boys say these are the toys to get. I love that gecko, it climbs walls and ceilings!

For the Moms

If a woman in your life bakes, these are what to buy. Pick a few and make a cute little basket.

Gifts for the Host

We all know that one person who is always throwing a party. Everyone loves a card game for a wide range of ages, cozy socks to pamper themselves after a long day of standing in the kitchen, a pretty oven mitt, a tomato candle to light after the kitchen is clean, and pretty all-clad serving tools that will be used for years.

Hubby, Buy me the Red Light Mask

When I am not in the garden I am a wellness girly. I own the red-light, eye mask, water bottle, gua sha tool, snail mucin, and acupressure mat. I really want the red light therapy mask so if my husband has read this far down that’s another hint for you, (sous vide machine and red light mask).

Be a great friend, buy the fanny pack

For the friend who climbs mountains instead of going to the club. A nice mix of practical and pretty items. I can see it now, Mister Friend is sitting by the fire with their slippers, drinking coffee from the Stanley coffee maker using the mutitool to open up a bag of marshmallows. The have a wonderful night sleep, head down the mountain, and when they get back to find their car dead in the parking lot they can use the portable jumper cables to make it off the mountain. They will be calling you once they get service THANKING YOU!

That is it for this week! Thanks for sticking around for this Black Friday Edition! Happy Shopping!!!!!

TTYL, LYLAS <3

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A quick note: some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission if you decide to shop through them. Every bit helps me keep creating cozy, garden-inspired content I love sharing with you, thank you so much for being here!